These first days of 2011, taking advantage of a sale flight of Point Afrique, we spent one week in the region of Atar, region which we had already visited in 2006 and 2008, so we had marks and some contacts.
On the last ten years the region of Adrar had bet successfully on a development of the tourism of closeness (helped by of numerous NGO): hundreds of family or associative small companies were create, approximately 200 guides there among which 80 patentees of state with serious formations were operational. The whole to the satisfaction of the associative tour operators mainly. It is to notice that exept some track (or road) accidents, no major problem took place in the Adrar.
In 2006 or 2007, Total obtained a concession of research on the east of Mauritania. At the beginning it was the dream: the track Atar / Ouadane (200 km) had to be tarred, guides hired by French received luxurious monthly payments about 500€. Very fast a Mauritanian manager right the ship and divided salaries by two. Since Total subcontract the massacre of the Erg Ourane (280 km east of Ouadane) to a Chinese company which hires without contract nor insurance at 100€. In case of disagreement the employees have two options: on the West the suburbs of Nouakchott (+ of 800Km) before trying to join Europe! Or it is AQMI in Mali!!
On 2007 it is also the massacre near Aleg of 4 French by bandits (not Mauritanian) massacre claimed in posteriori by AQMI, Aleg is at 500Km (800 by the road) of Atar (would disadvise we a stay at Gerbier de jonc or at Pont de l'Arc if such event occurred in Biarritz, Nantes or Strasbourg). It is what made our clear-sighted and planning Ministry of Foreign Affairs by placing in red zone all the zones of prospecting of Total with in addition to the historic cities of Ouadane, Chinguetti and the crater of Gerb er Richat. Like all around the world, Total does not appreciate tourism!
Result at the end of 2010: 80 % of reception facilities feel dormant for the best one, ruined for the worst , the track of Ouadane more execrable than ever because of sowing-trailers and other one doors-tanks of oil men.
During our stay the regrettable and tragic kidnapping of Niamey: the quai d'Orsay widens its fatwa, it is true that Niamey is only in 1900Km (more or less the same incidence as Athens on Lyon).
Further information: if the tourists are rare to Atar, it is not the case of the servicemen who secure the zones of prospecting, including 200 French (special operations) which we meet in town with 4x4 not registered.
Positive note : Mauritanian make (how long) the difference enter French and the couple Total / quay of Orsay. During our stay, more than 50 people thanked us for having come in Adrar nevertheless.
The last proof of the misunderstanding (or bad faith) of the ministry: on the advise for travelers, it is written that the country lacks cashpoint: in 2008 we used one in Nouakchott. At present 3 are in service to Atar and probably other one in Nouadhibou. I find deplorable what to satisfy a French oil group, we can sentence to the ruin a region of 60000 people by disadvising the sector, while Dakar and same Nouakchott are more dangerous zones (but the gangsters who officiate do not refer to AQMI there)
The 01/152011.
Louis & Bernadette
Last news : the flight we took to go back in France the 01/09/2011 was the last flight to Atar ! Point Afrique stop is activity.
